Orchids and blue lilies bloom in Mandeville, a breezy hill town that was founded in 1816 and named for the son of Jamaica’s longest-serving colonial governor, the Duke of Manchester. This is Jamaica’s other side; a side not to be missed if you really want to know the true heart of Jamaica.
At 2,000 feet above sea level, with a village green bordered by a 19th-century church and courthouse, Mandeville’s cool climate, gardens and genteel British heritage have long made it a favorite weekend destination for Jamaicans as well as discerning visitors.
Hiking and horseback riding through a rolling countryside rich in orange and tangerine groves (Jamaica’s ortanique, a blend of both, was developed here in the 1920s) are popular. So are the garden tours offered by the local horticultural society -- and golf at the Manchester Club, which was founded in 1868 and boasts the country’s oldest (nine-hole) course.
Birdwatchers and hikers, meanwhile, can flock (by appointment) to Marshall’s Pen, a 300-acre cattle farm with a well-kept 18th-century Great House, beautiful gardens and a renowned bird sanctuary.
About thirty miles southeast of Mandeville, the tranquil South Coast beckons with the Milk River Bath, a spa that dates back to 1794 and boasts curative waters fifty times more potent than those of Vichy or Baden-Baden.
This "quiet side" of Jamaica also boasts numerous natural attractions and wildlife refuges, including the Long Bay Morass, near the fishing village of Alligator Pond, a swampy refuge for the rare, protected manatee as well as crocodiles. (Unlike those found elsewhere in the world, Jamaica’s crocodiles are a docile bunch that feed mainly on fish.)
At Black River, further west, accommodations are available at historic Invercauld Great House and Hotel. Boat trips take visitors along Jamaica’s longest river into another freshwater swamp filled with herons, snowy egrets and more of the island’s crocodiles--many of which are so familiar to guides they’ve been given names like George and Fred.
The main road between Mandeville and Black River passes through Bamboo Avenue, a translucent, two-mile-long green tunnel formed by century-old bamboo groves. Detours along the way lead to the famous Appleton Estate’s sugar factory and rum distillery, as well as to YS Falls, where a series of pools provide ideal swimming.
The Treasure Beach area, between Black River and Alligator Pond, is another excellent spot for swimming and is fast becoming Jamaica’s most desirable out-of-the-way vacation spot.
A few miles from Treasure Beach, where the Santa Cruz Mountains meet the sea, a lookout point 1,500 feet above the water is known as Lover’s Leap. Legend says that two young slaves secretly met nearby and pledged their undying love. When their owner decided to sell one of them, the desperate couple jumped off the cliff hand-in-hand -- but were saved by a golden net cast by the moon.
From the verdant mountains to the craggy coastline, you’ll find the South Coast of Jamaica is not just another shore. Come. Here is where you’ll discover another world.
Activities
In addition to the highlighted sports, the following are also available in the resort areas: Camping, Jogging, Parasailing, Sailing, Snorkeling, Swimming, Tennis, Waterfall Climbing, Waterskiing.
Biking
Bicycles are often available for rental at hotels and guest houses.
Golf
Manchester Country Club
9 holes, 2,865 yards, par 35. Built over a century ago, Manchester is the oldest golf course in the Caribbean. The 9-hole layout has 18 tee positions, enabling you to play a full 18-hole round.Clubhouse, bar.
Tel: 876-962-2403
Hiking
Mandeville's rolling terrain and cool, bracing weather are made to order for backpackers of every age. (Ask at your hotel for information.)
Horseback Riding
Ashton Great House and Hotel
By appointment only
Tel. (876) 965-2036
Nightlife
- Jim Lilly's H.Q.
- Gutters
- Planet Disco
- Tracks Disco
